Monday, February 27, 2012

John's Op-Ed Piece for Monterey County Herald




Posted: 02/24/2012 08:10:03 PM PST/ Updated: 02/25/2012 12:51:07 AM PST



Living with all the details
By JOHN BERTEAUX
Guest commentary


I have been traveling, exploring how the moral quality of liberal democracies are affected by the existence of racial groups.


Funny thing, throughout my recent travels, people have introduced themselves, asked me where I am from and when I responded "Estados Unidos," they simply answer back "Obama" and smile.


I nod or give them a "thumbs up." More often than not, that is the extent of our conversation — no details, just a smile and a thumbs up.


These experiences remind me of a line from the movie "Death and the Maiden." You may remember the scene in which Sigorney Weaver's husband interrogates her. Again and again he insists that she explain why she didn't tell him she was raped while in custody in Argentina's "dirty war."


Finally, in frustration, she blurts out "There is a difference between hearing the facts and knowing the details." I took her to mean that while she could give him the facts, it was details that rendered what happened to her real and he could never absorb the depth of her experiences — the details.


Since last June, we've visited a number of countries. In each country, people were quick to raise a thumb for Obama and assure me that race and racism was not a problem. So what have I found?

Fete du National Parade held
in the Plateau of Montreal

One stop was Montreal, where we lived in the French-speaking Plateau, where most are committed to multiculturalism. While I was in Montreal, white students at McGill University's elite business school donned blackface, the colors of Jamaica's flag, pretended to be smoking pot, and chanted "Ya, Man!" in a mock Jamaican accent to imitate world famous Jamaican sprinter Usain Bolt.

So too, as he apologized for the state's past treatment of First Nations people in residential schools, Canadian Prime Minister Stephen Harper noted the current discouraging economic and social statistics of aboriginal people.


By contrast, Argentina is said to be an assimilationist society — "all the blacks in Argentina have disappeared." And because Argentina does not ask about race on its census, no one is quite sure how many blacks (or aboriginals) are living in the country.



Argentines in black face celebrating
the different "cultures" of Argentina
 At one time, blacks were one third of Argentina's population. Although recent studies estimate that Afro-Argentines make up anywhere from 1 percent to 4 percent of the population, in Buenos Aires, one does not see blacks working as police officers, as retail clerks, in the post office, delivering mail on construction sites in the city or driving taxis. This in a city with a population four times that of Los Angeles.


Whereas these facts point to the limits multiculturalism or assimilationism, which often fail to embrace the lived experience of aggrieved groups, conversely there is a theory that stresses not just impartiality and equality in the existing structures of society, but equal consideration for the experiences of others.


If you have been in a caring relationship you know that it requires concern for the well-being of those in the relationship as well as concern for the well-being of the relationship itself. Indeed, Ethic of Care theorists say “Persons in caring relations are acting for self-and-other together.”


John Berteaux is an associate professor of philosophy at CSU Monterey Bay. He is now on a on sabbatical working on a manuscript "What about Race after Obama?", work that is taking him to Montreal, Buenos Aires, Tokyo and Paris. He can be reached at jberteaux@csumb.edu

Saturday, February 25, 2012

February 20-26, 2012 - the last full week...

Guess the red sky at night was a real sign.
Rain storm comes with thunder and lightening...




Residue from the storm on our patio
  
It has been “cool” since the storm - tempratures around 77°F to 64°F.
(Humidity lower than 75%.)




Carnival Festivals have begun...




 


Drums


Dancers
 








Every weekend over 100 "murgas" (bands of street musicians and dancers) participate in traditional Carnival "corsos" or parades in different districts of the city. Critical lyrics in a festive atmosphere.




____*____

One last trip to Retiro and the Correo to ship home some things we won't be needing for the rest of the trip.


Walking through a plaza from the Post Office
we see the Retiro subte station.

____*____


Friday, last night for tango at
Aires Tanguera

Food and drink for the Tango soul
at Aires Tanguero


Eduardo and Gloria
with students watching


With Marco Ayo, manager of Aires Tanguero

Since this was our last class with Eduardo and Gloria, we awarded them with flowers and champagne.  John prepared a speech.  "Este champagne es para ayudarle a olvidar nuestro baile." (This champagne is to help you forget our dancing.)

This was also the first time we felt like we actually knew what was happening and felt like we weren't the beginners of the class.








____*____


with Lucy and Gerry
and to say thanks for Afro-cultural insights to Diego and Javier.




Lucia, Susie, John and Gerry
at Movimiento Afrocultural


____*____

The next few days will be cleanup and last minute stuff before we leave for France.
The next blog will be John's op-ed piece that appeared in the Monterey Herald, Feb. 24, 2012.
I will be posting, eventually a retrospective of Buenos Aires...




Sunday, February 19, 2012

Last Days with Cynthia...














On Friday, February 10, Cynthia and I say goodbye to Uruguay and arrive Buenos Aires in time for a nap and dinner. John takes us to a cafĂ© by the Plaza de Congreso and then some ice cream at Wimpy’s.







____*____


It’s always good to have librarians as friends – Cynthia finds the website that finds the bus schedule that is easy to use. Because of this finding, we are able to get the bus that drops us off at Malba (Museum of Latin American Art of Buenos Aires)


Looking for Diego Rivera...












 Next we walk around Palermo looking for the Floralis Generico. We don’t find it because we are walking in the wrong direction, but we do get to see the upscale neighborhoods of the area. Then we get on the bus back home.



 


____*____

Feria de San Telmo is in order for Sunday…




Find Cynthia...



Salsa on the corner




Tango for the Young...




...and Older
 



Enjoying the ambiance of Plaza Dorrego Bar
  

____*____


La Boca is a must see place, it’s changed significantly since Cynthia was here last.


Checking out the art and buildings...

Bandoneones in La Boca (Paraiso/Paradise)

Historic La Perla Bar

 
Boca Jr's Stadium


















Then the bus to Puerto Madero to look at Puente de la Mujer in the daylight.


One can never get enough of this gorgeious beauty...

____*____

The day is going to be hot, so we get up early to get some things done before venturing out.

 We’ve found the bus that will take us to Floralis Generico so we walk to Av Libertad, bus 67, that takes us to the grand sculpture.



Floralis Generico
From the Lockheed airplane factory by architect Eduardo Catalano

 We walk around the parks in the area to find the returning bus that will take us back to the center of town. Can’t find the stop, so we find the tourist information in the Design Center Shopping Mall by the Recoleta Cemetary – it’s across the street by the Alvear Palacio.


Dada Cafe
Cooling  off with the smooth Jazz played in the background


The 17 bus takes us to Av San Martin and Paraguay so we can check out the Dada Café.

We then walk home in the shade of the buildings.

____*____


It’s Cynthia’s last day in Buenos Aires.
We saved the sites close by for her last day…


Café Tortoni, Metropolitan Cathedral and the Museo de Casa Rosada

Cafe Tortoni for Cafe con Leche and Medialunas


Catedral Metropolitana
The Tomb of General Jose de San Martin


Museo de Casa Rosada


On the way back, we have lunch at the Museo de JamĂłn (we’ve often wondered if it was actually a ham museum-there’s no museum, lots of ham, tho…)




 

When we get back to the apartment,
it’s time for Cynthia to get ready to leave – 

It’s 5:30pm – time to go…










Off to the airport!
   












 



We will miss her – just as Debi became a part of this experience, Cynthia, too, made it possible to revisit favorite places and things, brought new sights and processes (easy bus route location) to our Baires Adventure.

____*____

 

With Cynthia now gone, we quickly settle into a slow routine because of the heat and humidity.  We thought it hot while C. was here – there is now an orange alert because of the heat...
• We start looking at things that need to be done to prepare the apartment for the next tenants

• We begin looking at travel arrangements for Paris and Esperáza
• John continues to go to the gym

• I continue to go to the Coto for groceries

• On Friday, we return to Aires Tangeros for tango



Red Sky at Night, Sailor's Delight...
Maybe the heat wave is over.
 

We have a week and a half left here in this fascinating, remarkable city.





Sunday, February 12, 2012

Uruguay with Cynthia...


All Packed and Ready to Go to....
Uruguay!!!

Cynthia and I leave for Uruguay - we are meeting Cynthia's friend,
Diego Estol and his partner Nuri.
We are leaving John behind to his writing and research.




Leaving Buenos Aires

First, the ferry to Colonia de Sacramento where Diego and Nuri meet us. 
We stay at Diego's Cousin Cristina's home in Colonia so we can explore Colonia and
the coast to Montevideo where Diego and Nuri live and work.



Lunch at the beach in Colonia


Nuri, Cynthia and Diego
in front of a small hotel



Colonia is most hospitable


Nuri, Diego and Susie
waiting for the sunset



Sunsetting over Buenos Aires



Colonia Lighthouse
____



We leave Cristina's house
for Montevideo


"Yacare" (Cha-ka-ray) in the back of the truck
He is a (retired) working farm dog - Cimarron Uruguayo


We stop at a Parrilla for lunch in
Nuevo Suiza


Buffet of salads and desserts...
Parilla of asado, sweetbreads, tripe and other ofal






 











 







____*____


In Montevideo, Cynthia and I explore the Old City and Plaza Independencia



The City was once walled in

 
Plaza Independencia
Palacio Salvo and General Artigas



Coffee at Las Misiones
 




























____*____

Diego and Nuri have the day off, so we drive up the coastline.

First we stop at the "Farm" 



Soca Farmhouse
 


Getting aquainted with the residents



Pink Lady in the field...


More of the farm residents
 
For the rest of the day we continue the drive up the coast.




Playa Floresta

Lunch in Piriapolis


Punto del Este
 
.Now back to the Soca farm...



Soca
 














We stop to order dinner - pizza!

Back at the farmhouse

 



Morning duties - exercise the horses...




Breakfast in town
 
 
El Jefe con mate
driving back to
Montevideo















____*____

 Back in Montevideo


Montevideo View

Recyle Cart

Obelisco
Av. Antigas


Playa Ramirez




















____*____

More Montevideo

Playa Pocitos

The Opera House


Inside the box seating



Cafe























Now we meet Vicki and Sebastiano to go to
Barrio Sur, calle Isla de Flores for
Candombe!









Candombe masks








 


 














For the sound of the Candombe watch this youtube video:






____*____

Our last day...

the Old Market by the terminal
then to Buquebus Ferry Terminal





Goodbye toast to Montevideo
with Medio y Medio


*Good Bye, Montevideo*








Last view of Montevideo from the ferry...


So ends another adventure in the "Southern Cone"